So much history can be found right under our noses, even in places that have become so mundane in our everyday lives, their richness and depth are now overlooked. If you look hard enough though there is much to be appreciated. The Queen’s Park Savannah, that many drive past daily, is one such place. For this instalment of Right Here, Khary Roberts uncovers what’s under the savannah grass.
The Queen’s Park Savannah is more than just a patch of green in the middle of Port of Spain. It is a piece of our collective story. Once part of the grand Paradise Estate owned by the Peschier family, it was sold to the then government in 1817, becoming public land with the exception of a cemetery, still owned by the Peschiers. Since then, the Savannah has been a place where history, culture, and community come together.
From its beginnings as a cattle pasture, it eventually evolved into a hub of activity, becoming the heart of life in Port of Spain. In the 1800s it saw the hosting of horse races, cricket matches, and other sports- later becoming a prime spot for leisurely evening strolls among the many trees trailing its circumference. During World War II, it briefly served as an airstrip, its open fields adapting to the demands of history. Today, the Savannah is considered ground zero for Carnival.
When you see the iconic stalls going up around the Savannah, you know Carnival is right around the bend! Commonly called “The Big Yard” during this period, it is the beating heart of the greatest show on Earth. Here, the nation’s creativity explodes into colour and sound. The steel pan orchestras command the stands, the King and Queen of the Bands dazzle with their costumes, the pulsating rhythms of calypso and Soca echo across the grounds, and thousands of masqueraders march on, in great anticipation, for their chance to cross the stage for all to see ! For generations, the Savannah has been the stage where traditions thrive and legends are made. Right now though, the stage is literally being set.
On the eastern end of the park is the sought-after food hub. During the day, it is scantily populated with the occasional passer by going on their way. The activities here are rather, nocturnal- springing to life when the skies darken and hungry masses flock to feed their fancies. Good news for the many vendors who turn out to ply their trade.
As you circle the Savannah, it’s impossible to ignore the history written in its surroundings. The Magnificent Seven, those grand mansions on its western edge, the National Academy for the Performing Arts, A modern monument standing proudly as a symbol of where we’re headed while other colonial structures remind us of where we’ve been.
And here is a fun fact: Guinness World Records lists the Savannah as the largest roundabout in the world! Spanning 3.5 kilometres around! It also makes for a good training ground for those of us who have just a little more motivation to exercise between January and March for some “unknown” reason.
The Savannah is more than its history or its Carnival. It’s a living, breathing space where life unfolds daily. It’s the early morning joggers chasing the sunrise, the doubles vendors tempting taste buds, and families gathering in the cool evening breeze. It’s where Port of Spain comes to life, where stories begin, and memories are made. I’m Khary Roberts giving you a glimpse into the paradise we have Right Here.